Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Rome Continues and Ends!

First thing this morning, Sunday, May 17th, I am still getting "heat" from Colin about my "short cut" home yesterday afternoon which probably added a good 45 minutes to our walking. Weather forecast for today was 31 Celsius. A quick cappuccino before we head out. Cross Ponte Sisto which leads us into the Campo de Fiore area of Rome where we come across the Sunday market in the square by the same name. Always love these markets and especially fresh flowers that are available at this time of year in Europe, hard pressed to find these in Calgary at any time of the year!

We peak into several churches on our way to Piazza Navona. I have lost track of how many churches we have been into and Robin is staying in the shade unless the church holds something outside the norm of European church standards. As it is Sunday, there are signs in all the churches stating that one cannot visit the Church if mass is being said. I can understand this, simply a respect thing. I still can't help being impressed by the interior of the churches. The artistry of the mosaics, the artwork, marble inlays and beautifully decorated ceilings do not cease to amaze
Arrive at Piazza Navona, which is an elongated oval and the foundations of the buildings are built on the remains of an ancient stadium. It is built in the Baroque style. This square always has something going on in the pedestrian area and around its three fountains. Lots of people here and of course the various artists/hawkers selling their wares. Also Swamis that seem to be suspended in mid air. Do you want your picture taken with this Swami.....only twenty Euro! Up until the 19th century, the Piazza was flooded during August by plugging the fountain outlets. The rich would come around in carriages and splash around while street urchins paddled after them. Certainly a different time, sure wouldn't happen these days....could just see the protests!

In the centre of the square is " The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. The fountain was designed by Bernini and supports an Obelisk which originally sat in Circus Maximus on the Appian Way. The fountain was built in 1651 and four great rivers, the Ganges, the Danube, the Nile and the Plate are represented by four Giants in the fountain. It's the last picture in those directly below this. Robin says he likes the picture of me taking a picture (below) because of the colourfully dressed people behind me!




Make our way to Piazza Della Rotonda to view the Pantheon. This was a Pagan Temple built in the 2nd Century and is known as " Temple of all the Gods". It was re consecrated as a Christian Church in the 7th Century. Although we could not enter, as there was a service in process, we were able to view the interior.



After the Parthenon, we are looking for a particular church that has a "blue" ceiling, and behold we do come across it, that is of course after entering two other churches on the way. Must say, the ceiling is indeed spectacular and different to anything we have seen so far. Question....How many churches can there be in the City of Rome? Can you guess? Stay tuned!


Various street scenes and graffiti/street art in Rome.
Walk, walk and walk some more. We make it to the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps once again, as Suzanne and Colin had not been there. Then decide to walk up to Borghesi Park to take a break.
We decide to make our way home walking down Via Veneto. In Imperial Rome times, this was classified as a suburb where rich families owned luxurious villas and gardens. In the 1900's, Via Veneto had become a street of stylish hotels and cafes. It was featured prominently in Fellini's film "La Dolce Vita".

Robin spots a store called Muji, along the Via Veneto. We had come across this store (from Japan) in New York City last year, and he had bought a few items there, one of which was a toothbrush he really liked. We tried to find more on-line, but they wouldn't ship to Canada. So, he takes the opportunity to buy a few more. Pretty posh don't you think...."Where do you buy your toothbrushes? Well.....I buy mine in Rome and New York City! Lah di dah!

Every evening Suzanne and Colin have come to our apartment for aperitif's before dinner. Have eaten out at restaurants in the Trastevere area. Always enjoyable. Family is so important and great to be able to spend these precious few days with them.

Monday arrives and we had decided to go to St. Peter's early. We get there and already faced with line ups, but we are in the Basilica within 35 minutes. Hard to describe the feeling one has, being brought up in the Catholc faith, and visiting the Seat of the Catholic Church. This church is massive and the art, marble, statues, niches and side alters are too numerous to describe. Firstly, even the plaza is amazing and once you enter the church, Michaelangelo's dome, the Papal altar, the doors, the various monuments, the tombs, the Baroque canopy which dominates the Nave, and finally the Pieta (behind glass since a nutter hammered the face off, since reconstructed). So glad we were able to take this in.



After visiting the Basilica, walk along theTiber and make our way up to Piazza Del Popolo, walking by the ruins of Augustus on the way there. Take a break here. We are at the north end of Via Del Corso and if you look toward the south, you can see the Victor Emmanuelle monument at the southern most end. Also, looking up from the Piazza you can see the Borghese Gardens.
Continue down Via del Corso and make our way to Circus Maximus . O.K. I will admit, probably my single disappointment when seeing all the sites here in Rome. Just looks like a big field and people were taking down fences as the Race for Cancer Cure was held here this past weekend. I have looked at reconstructions of this site and seems to have been quite spectacular in its' day. History indicates that this was once ancient Rome's largest stadium. Grandstands held 300,000 spectators cheering at the chariot races. Didn't even take a picture here, that will tell you something.
This evening, Monday, May 18th was our last evening with Suzanne and Colin. We have so much enjoyed spending time with them. Thank You!
Heard that Djokovic beat Federer in the Italian Open. Might have to take this in one of these years. Robin tells me that this is one of the few titles that Federer has never won. French Open starts on Monday. Oh, the choices!
By the way, how many churches did you guess? Wikipedia says more than 900.
Tuesday, our last day in Rome. We take our time getting out and about today, and start off at our favourite coffee shop for tea and cappuccino to get us going. Read the local Italian papers. The locals are bemoaning the state of the roads and the garbage. Don't think the Government has any money to fix these problems. Looks like the Rome airport still undergoing delays due to the fire last week.
We walk across the Ponte Garibaldi on our way to the Musei Capitolini. Come across the Jewish sector with all it's kosher restaurants. Robin and I were saying how much busier it has gotten in Rome from our first couple of days here last week. Very noticeable are school groups from all over the World.

The Musei Capitolini dates back to 1471 when the Pope of the day donated a group of bronze statues to the people of Rome. Additional artworks and pieces were added from treasures found during excavations, others transferred from the Vatican art collection and some purchases made by the museum. The museum is made up of three separate buildings surrounding the Piazza del Campidoglio.

We finished viewing the art in the first building and exited through the requisite Gallery store and went over to the next building. We are told that we must enter via the original building and go downstairs then through the tunnel. We did not realize that the buildings were connected through underground tunnels. These instructions were relayed in Italian and lots of sign language. Why is it when one is not understood, people simply talk louder. No, I am not deaf, I just don't understand Italian when you speak so quickly, no need to talk so loud!

Think we spent about two hours in the museums. Magnificent works of art and a great setting. Famous collection of busts of ancient philosophers and Roman Emperors, the reclining statue of "Marforio" in one of the courtyards, numerous Roman bronzes, beautiful equestrian statues and lovely tapestries. Works by numerous artists as well, including Carravagio, Guercino and others. Love the statue and fresco of Romulus and Remus suckling from the she wolf (referred to previously). Statue also known as "The Capitoline Wolf".

Make our way to the Pantheon, as we weren't able to enter this past Sunday. Wander through the narrow lanes to get there. Once again massive crowds, but we go straight in. It really is quite spectacular inside, hard to believe that this is a Catholic Church. I'm thinking to myself....O.K. Mr., get that selfie stick out of my way or I will elbow you.....right, I'm in the Church.....shouldn't be thinking bad thoughts....how many Hail Mary's would that be after going to confession!
Back to our apartment around 3 p.m. and some downtime before our last evening out. More street pictures, on the way, of everyday life in Rome. Go out for a nice dinner and short walk through the lanes of Trastevere. We come across an art installation in progress. The artist has laid down pieces of metal and he was asking passers by to help hammer them with mallets, thereby taking shape of the cobblestones below....Robin took part!





I really haven't talked about the food here in Rome. Great coffee, gelato and yummy Itslian sandwiches. Most people probably know that when you go out for dinner, you would normally eat four separate courses. First would be Insalata (salad), then pasta, then a meat dish and finally a desert. We are probably outside the norm of diners. We simply have a meat dish and split a pasta dish, usually pasta with pepper and pecorino cheese.
Final impressions of Rome. Lots of history everywhere, and hopefully the Government will give sufficient funds to ensure various sites are preserved for future generations. A very walkable City; we must have walked at least 14 kilometres a day, if not more. We loved the location of our apartment and would recommend the Trastevere area to anyone visiting. Graffiti everywhere, even on doors of private homes. Garbage everywhere as well, and people simply throw things in the streets. Really must do something about these two issues. As with other foreign countries we have been to, it pays to pick up some key words in the local language. It's always appreciated. Would recommend a visit to Rome for anyone. Would we come back, probably not.....too many other places we haven't been to, but definitely glad we made it here.


1 comment:

  1. You didn't get a picture with the floating swami? How were they floating? I like how you did your photos. How did you do that? Love you,
    Nicole

    ReplyDelete